Among turtles and sloths: "Welcome to the jungle"!
You know those places that look as if they were designed by an artist with a soft spot for the jungle and an obsession with exotic animals? Well, Tortuguero National Park is one of those places—except it’s real, and it has everything it needs to be spectacular.
If you love sea turtles, sloths gazing down at you from above, and endless forests, you’re in the right place.
But don’t expect a grand arrival complete with airport and limousine!
Nope, we’re not into that kind of nonsense—and if you’re here, you probably aren’t either.
Getting to Tortuguero is a little odyssey of river channels and speedboats racing through the jungle: awesome!
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A hidden paradise (literally)
Located on Costa Rica’s Caribbean coast, in Limón Province, Tortuguero National Park is a true natural wonder spanning more than 76,000 hectares, across land and sea.
It is best known—surprise, surprise—for its sea turtles, which come here every year to lay huge numbers of eggs on its incredible beaches.
In short, the park is basically a vast maternity ward for these reptiles, fully equipped, incubators included, where nature rules supreme—though with a few cohabitation issues involving those rude tourists we’ll tell you about in a moment.
The park is not exactly the easiest destination to reach, and that only adds to its charm. First, you need to get to Cariari, a village you can reach by bus from San José. From there, you hop on a boat for a thrilling speedboat ride through narrow, dense canals, surrounded by jungle so thick that even Tarzan—without GPS—would get lost after two minutes.
There, as you glide over the dark water, you might spot caimans, toucans, howler monkeys, and who knows what else.
After about a couple of hours of navigation, you finally set foot in Tortuguero.
And trust me, it will be one of the best experiences of your life, even though the rain will probably soak you right through. Because it rains there. Always.
The stars of the show: the turtles
But let’s talk about the park’s true stars: the turtles. When it comes to nesting, Tortuguero is like the hospital with the busiest nursery on the planet.
No fewer than four species of sea turtle come here to lay their eggs: the green turtle, the leatherback turtle (which can weigh up to 500 kg!), the hawksbill turtle, and the loggerhead turtle.
These ancient creatures undertake epic journeys, swimming thousands of kilometers across the ocean to return right here, to the very same beach where they were born, to lay their eggs.
Turtles are as punctual as Swiss watches, just slower: every year, between June and September, the park turns into one huge maternity event.
These patient, habitual reptiles emerge from the sea at night and begin digging their nest, lay their eggs, and then head back to the ocean as if nothing had happened. Meanwhile, a small army of tourists wanders around with guides, infrared binoculars, and mesmerized expressions...
What a nuisance.
Birth on display: the problem of intrusive tourists
And this is where the problem begins: too many tourists.
Because let’s be honest, being watched while in labor is not exactly the most relaxing experience for an animal. Can you imagine giving birth with a group of strangers staring at you, snapping photos from every angle?
The issue is that these long-lived reptiles are sensitive creatures and, even though they enter a sort of trance while laying their eggs, their peace and quiet is essential. And even if they don’t get angry and attack the onlookers crowding the beach, it’s still not a pleasant experience for them.
Now let’s put away the sign reading “LET THESE TURTLES GIVE BIRTH IN PEACE!” for a moment and continue telling you about the amazing things this park has to offer.
Because yes, I haven’t yet told you that beyond the turtles, you can also admire caimans, sloths, manatees, and if you’re really lucky, maybe even spot a jaguar roaming through the forest. In short, the wildlife here is incredible, and birdwatching lovers will find a true paradise, with more than 400 species of birds!
Canoes, kayaks, and lots and lots of rain
So what can you do in Tortuguero besides watching turtles (seriously, didn’t anyone teach you as a child that it’s rude to stare?)
Well, get ready to dive—literally—into the rainforest.
The best way to explore this park is undoubtedly by canoe or kayak. Drifting slowly along the canals gives you the chance to observe the flora and fauna up close, in an almost unreal silence broken only by animal calls and the sound of paddles slicing through the water.
Canoe tours leave every morning from the small dock in the village of Tortuguero, a little town that looks like it belongs on a postcard, with its colorful houses and locals welcoming you with warm, genuine smiles (unless, of course, you owe them money).
It’s a unique experience because it lets you see a side of Costa Rica you won’t find in resorts. There are no white-sand beaches and crystal-clear waters here: the sea is often rough and the water murky, but that’s exactly where the real beauty lies.
And to answer the question probably spinning around in your head: yes, it always rains!
Tortuguero is one of the rainiest places in Costa Rica, with an average of 5,000–6,000 millimeters of rain per year. Translated into simpler terms, that means when it rains, it really pours.
But it’s precisely thanks to this humid climate that the vegetation is so lush and green. So pack a raincoat, learn the words to “I’m Singing in the Rain,” and resign yourself to getting a bit (very) wet. But trust me, it’s worth it.
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Conclusion
Tortuguero National Park is a place that will leave you speechless. A natural paradise, where turtles, sloths, and caimans live in harmony (well, with the usual neighborhood squabbles, but that’s normal) and where you can immerse yourself in nature like never before.
Of course, there are challenges to face: mass tourism threatens the peace of these places, and especially that of the turtles. But with a little care and respect, we can continue enjoying this corner of the world without compromising its beauty and biodiversity (and LET THESE DARN TURTLES GIVE BIRTH IN PEACE!).
So, if you’re looking for an authentic experience far from the usual tourist routes, Tortuguero is the right place for you. Pack your raincoat, hop into a canoe, and let’s go.
Book our 13-day Costa Rica itinerary now and enjoy the jungle!
